So…here’s three possible plans of outfits. First and foremost, the one I want to have done by July…
900AD Viking style
Based on this website, with tips from this website and tips from this page (among many, many others; I have so many bookmarks.)
Quick version for July
- At least 2 medium-weight linen or similar underdresses (serks). I’m doing the keyhole neckline style, ankle length, and probably rectangle sleeves (tapered looks too hard). I do want to trim the neckline and cuffs, but I’m not sure what I can use.
- 1 apron dress (smock or smokkr); I need to check my geography but I’m pretty sure I want blue to stay consist with the west Scandinavian style. I’ve looked at wool fabrics and I am doubtful about having the money ready in time, but I’m looking at some possible substitutes in cotton or poly/cotton suiting twill or gabardine.
- 2-3 pairs of socks - I’ll see if I can get the hang of nalbinding in time; I have a pattern, though I’ve also found sock crochet patterns too. And these I can do in real wool. I will also ask around and see if socks+stockings is a bad idea or not (as doubling up socks already is, so…yeah).
- Mittens - nalbound or crochet. I can do either.
- A cloak or mantle of some sort. I may be able to cut up a brushed wool poncho I already have, or I can investigate if one of my brushed wool blankets is permissible as a triangle shawl.
- Stockings - apparently, any knit-look stockings are fine, so I’m going to wear my cable knit HeatTech stockings.
- Belt - looks like a narrow woven belt is fine, with brooches to hang stuff from.
- Some satin (brocade if possible cheaply) for a filet. I don’t think I need a veil. I do want to find out if I can do a hood, but I need to do a lot of checking. (And figure out if I can do a waterproofing layer somehow.)
- Shoes - I can buy some ankle boots, though I want some that are fold-down or have no cuffs in order to possibly put legwraps over them.
- (Optional, if time allows) Legwraps. I think my gray wool shirt is going to be too stretchy and thin (and it definitely won’t yield 6m of strips) so I’m much less clear on my ability to make these.
- Brooches - These are the hard part. I need at least a pair of oval or fibula brooches, and a small round brooch. I’ll need to figure out hanging strings of beads and tools etc from brooches too, either at my belt or up higher.
- Some strings of beads; I’ll have to look in Need4Bead for any handcut rondels or appropriately sized chips/nuggets. I have a couple of sizes of waxed cotton thread at home. I will need a sheath for nail scissors (to cut thread with) at least.
- Needle case - to carry small items. I’m thinking I’ll use the bone out of a lamb leg roast or a beef shank (obviously not cooked) - I’ve gotten some good tips on cleaning it, and sealing the inside. It’ll carry small items like my day containers for my meds, lip balm, bandaids, and if I still have room, some thread in basic colours for impromptu repairs and some safety pins. I’ll make a pincushion in the lid to carry some sewing needles as well if there’s space to use it as an actual sewing kit.
- A round straw basket, to carry my other stuff, with a blanket or something to go on top of it.
- A belt pouch, for cash, ID, and other such things.
The proper version
- I want the apron dress in real wool, damnit. With decorative trimming. And I’d like some more colours - won’t say no to a charcoal grey or olive green. I also want to trim and embroider it properly.
- Trimming the necklines of the serk, and possibly making more of them.
- A nicer cloak or mantle, possibly with a fur trim.
- Actual knitted/nalbound stockings. Unsure if they need to be footed or not. I want to do at least two pairs.
- Some more pairs of socks.
- Going to try weaving my own belt, and making tablet-woven trim and a tablet-woven filet.
- Shoes - I do want to try making some turn-out shoes, and I want to see if I can waterproof them with beeswax. We’ll see.
- Better legwraps. I don’t think I want to try actually weaving them, but at least heavier fabric and some more colours.
- More belt pouches.
- MORE BEADS. I also have a source for shed deer antlers, so I can make some stuff out of those.
- A proper Viking ladies’ knife, which I’ll have to buy; I’ll also need to make myself a couple of sizes of wooden spoons (for eating and for tea). They did not have forks.
- Some hairpins etc in bone.
- I want to try making a fibula or captive pin brooch, if it doesn’t involve heating the metal.
- Bone nalbinding needles and other accessories.
- Other sewing kit accouterments - a little pair of snips, a sharpening stone (though that might go on a cord around my neck instead), a couple of period bobbins (in bone, probably) and whatever else is needed to be both period and capable of on-the-fly clothing repair. (Someone always needs it, trust me. If it’s not a popped seam, it’s a busted hem or a failing button shank…)
- A grooming kit to hang from my brooches - at the minimum, some tweezers (someone will need them, trust me) and a nail file (I’ll need it, probably).
- Need to look at drinkware and bowls too - I’m not confident about being able to source the materials for a drinking horn, but there’s a possibility I might have cheap(er) access to a kiln sometime in the future.
- A bone comb - probably single-sided, or I’d do a slightly altered double-sided. (I don’t need a super-fine comb, but I do sometimes need an extra-wide detangling comb.)
- A proper water bottle, disguised.
- I’ll have to figure out disguising my Kobo and phone too, somehow.
- Might be worth looking at an apron too, but for craft I’ll probably stick with my black modern apron.
These other two I probably won’t do much about until later.
The summer outfit: Grecian
This one is based almost entirely off of Godward paintings and some pages of questionable veracity that I didn’t bookmark. And Wikipedia.
- A few chitons and peplos…es? Pepli? How does Greek work? I’ll have to look at colours. I’m thinking cheesecloth for summer - it’s more opaque and drapes more nicely than muslin. Winter chitons will probably be the longsleeved (Doric?) style, in something heavier. (I would actually sell my soul for a silk peplos, but I have no idea what I’d make it in - all the light drapey silks aren’t opaque enough.)
- A couple of thicker cotton shawls, like in the Godward paintings.
- Girdles. They look thicker than ribbon, so I’ll probably fold over some satin or something.
- I’ll have to look at headwear.
- A couple of himations; I want at least one in wool, maybe a couple in heavy cotton. And a silk one, for really hot weather, if I ever get super rich.
- They’ll be ornamental only, but a couple of fibula brooches for the shoulders and maybe some little button brooches for the Doric chiton.
- I’ll have to look into jewellery. Bangles and armbands are definitely go.
- A nice big basket for all my stuff. I’ll look into purses and such as well.
- Maybe some hairpieces?
- A flower crown, at least once. It’s probably period, somehow.
13th century style
I’m using this website as a guide to what I need.
- 2x cotehardies, or 1x reversible cotehardie. In terms of colours, I’m trying to think of a way to work with these four: cream, charcoal gray, rust red, olive green, a muted mid-blue. I’m thinking a side-lacing type would be best, with long wrist-flare sleeves.
- At least 2x chemises, likely in a heavier cotton. I may have to go for a style with a higher neckline for warmth, but we’ll see. I can still do it as a strappy style, just with a high neckline.
- (Optional) A surcote. A sleeveless type seems like the best bet.
- (Optional) Or, a decent cloak/mantle. And seperated hood to go with. Preferably wool.
- Hose, or at least some kind of socks. Hose are going to need garters, though…
- Belts, to go with the dresses. I’ll need a belt chape to fit onto the end too - or a single-loop buckle. And some hangers.
- A coif or veil. Again, wool would be really nice. And obvs a wimple too, probably cotton. Since the wimple is going to be touching my face, I’ll probably go with a low-cost cotton so I can make one for each day (my skin does not like rewearing stuff).
- Shoes. I’m thinking ankle boots, and mayyyyybe pattens. (Or I can borrow some pattens. Depends on how mucky the campsite gets.) I need to work out some waterproofing though, and hiding a wooly insole.
- Looking at English sumptuary laws, I’m stuck with silver only for jewellery, but I can definitely deal with that.
- Some knitted mittens. Now, this I can definitely do in time! Just need to find out the right colour and go get myself some yarn.
- A handbag - now, I’ve seen at least one period image of a pilgrim’s bag that honestly looked like a small A-body messenger bag.
- A purse - basically a nice drawstring bag, definitely doable. I could possibly do a couple of these, so I can put my meds, phone, etc in one.
- A cover for my Kobo e-reader that looks like a book.
- A water bottle, probably a plastic flask-type, that I can put leather over to cover it.
- Some brooches. Fibula/ring brooches seem to be fairly popular in the 1300s-1400s, though they’ll obviously be a little more elaborate. I’m not sure if a double ring brooch would work as a good cloak pin or not.
- Necklaces. It looks like hand-cut rounds or rondels would work best; not too perfect or even. I can put strings of beads in my hair too! Maybe.
- A period basket, for carrying any larger items (eg, below).
- A book-like cover for my laptop.
- A girdle book notebook.
- (Optional) A girdle book style cover for my phone. I’m…slightly nervous about it. We’ll see if it works. (I’d like to fit my little Rhodia notepad and a pen in there too.)
- Something to work as an overnight bag, to carry my clothes, toiletries and other stuff in.
- An apron wouldn’t be a bad idea for craft classes. But I might just take my plain black apron. Depends on how hard they’ll be to make.
As I said above, I’m going to do the quick version of the early Viking outfit. My next post will have some more details on each piece.
As always, slide into my DMs if you have comments or questions.